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Hexagon and Pentagon Pattern Tutorial
We have two pattern tutorials rolled into one. They are for a hexagon and a pentagon pattern. These motifs are both made in a very similar way and are used in my football pattern.
For this tutorial I have used Stylecraft Special DK and a 4mm hook. It will work in any yarn weight and appropriate hook size.
These motifs use double crochet (DC) and chain stitches (CH) I work in US terms. UK terms this would be treble crochet and chains stitches.
Abbreviations:
CH – Chain
CH1SP – Chain 1 Space
DC – Double Crochet
MR – Magic Ring
Rep – repeat
SLST – Slip Stitch
[…] – Repeat instructions between brackets the stated number of times
(…) – Work the stitches into the same stitch
Lets Begin with the hexagon motif.
Rnd 1: In a MR, CH4 (counts as a DC andCH1 here and through out) [DC 2, CH1] rep 5 times, DC, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (12)
Rnd 2: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 2, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 2] rep 5 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (24)
Rnd3: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 4, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 4] rep 5 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (36)
Rnd4: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 6, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 6] rep 5 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (48)
Rnd5: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 8, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 8] rep 5 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (60)
Fasten off.
Hexagon Motif Crochet Pattern Chart.
Below is the chart to work the pattern from.
The symbols represent a specific stitch. There is a table of the basic stitches and abbreviations HERE.
Hexagon Motif Pattern Chart - Charts can be written either row by row or in the round, like this one.
- Each round is numbered
In this example we start off with a magic ring. We chain 4 which will count as a double crochet and a chain stitch. We then work 2 double crochets followed by a chain st and repeating this 5 times. To finish the round we work on more double crochet, close the magic ring tight and slip stitch into the 3rd chain in our starting chain.
To begin round 2 we need to slip stitch into the chain 1 space first. Again, we chain 4 and work another double crochet into the same chain 1 space.
Work a double crochet into the next 2 stitches and you have reached the next chain 1 space. Here you will work a double crochet, chain and double crochet in to that chain space creating a ‘corner’. We then repeat this around. working in the same method for each round.
Each round will add an extra 2 double crochet stitches along each side of your hexagon.
Pentagon Motif Crochet Pattern
Rnd 1: In a MR, CH4 (counts as a DC and CH1 here and through out) [DC 2, CH1] rep 4 times, DC, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (10)
Rnd 2: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 2, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 2] rep 4 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (20)
Rnd3: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 4, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 4] rep 4 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (30)
Rnd4: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 6, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 6] rep 4 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (40)
Rnd5: SLST into CH1SP, CH4, DC in same CH1SP, DC 8, [ (DC, CH1, DC) in the CH1SP, DC 8] rep 4 times, join to 3rd CH with a SLST. (50)
Fasten off.
Pentagon Motif Crochet Pattern Chart.
Below is the chart to work the pattern from.
The symbols represent a specific stitch. There is a table of the basic stitches and abbreviations HERE.
Pentagon Motif Pattern Chart In this example we start off with a magic ring. We chain 4 which will count as a double crochet and a chain stitch. We then will work 2 double crochets followed by a chain st and repeating this 4 times. To finish the round we work on more double crochet, close the magic ring tight and slip stitch into the 3rd chain in our starting chain.
To begin round 2 we need to slip stitch into the chain 1 space first. Again, we chain 4 and work another double crochet into the same chain 1 space.
Work a double crochet into the next 2 stitches and you have reached the next chain 1 space. Here you will work a double crochet, chain and double crochet in to that chain space creating a ‘corner’. We then repeat this, working in the same method for each round.
Each round will add an extra 2 double crochet stitches along each side of your pentagon.
As you can see it is only the number of pattern repeats that changes between the hexagon and pentagon.
For an example of a pattern to use the hexagon and pentagon motifs in why not take a look at my Football (Soccer Ball) crochet pattern. You can purchase an ad free version of the pattern here on my website or on Etsy or Ravelry.
You can also find the a tutorial for the football pattern on my YouTube Channel.
I hope you have found this helpful. I hope it has given you some inspiration into using this stitch.
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Stitched Up Heart Coasters
This post may contain affiliate links. This means that I may make a small commission on any purchases made through the link at no extra cost to yourself. You can read more here.
I am excited to share my new crochet pattern, the ‘Stitched Up Heart Coasters’ with you all. Firstly, it is simple, and secondly, it works up fast by using basic stitches and is a perfect make ready for Valentine’s Day. Furthermore, the ‘Stitched Up Heart Coaster’ pattern can be used for different things. You could string them together to make some bunting, you could use it as an applique to decorate a blanket, you could even place one inside a picture frame to give as a gift to your loved one.
Stitched Up Heart Coaster Crochet Pattern Materials:
50g Paintbox Simply Cotton DK yarn ( Available at LoveCrafts)
4mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch Marker (optional)
Spray Starch (optional)
Abbreviations: Written in US terms.
(UK terms in brackets)
CH – Chain
CHSP – Chain Space
CH1SP – Chain 1 Space
DC – Double Crochet (TR – Treble Crochet)
HDC – Half Double Crochet (HTR – Half Treble Crochet)
MR – Magic Ring
Rep – Repeat
Rnd – Round
SC – Single Crochet (DC – Double crochet)
SK – Skip
SLST – Slip Stitch
st(s) – Stitch(es)
[…] – repeat pattern stated number of times
(…) Stitches worked into the same stitch
Notes:
The finished Coaster is approximately 4.5 inches by 4.5 inches.
This pattern has written instructions and crochet chart you could follow.
- The CH4 at the beginning of a row counts as a DC and a CH st.
- A CH5 at the beginning of a row counts as a DC and 2 CH sts.
- The CH3 at the beginning of a row counts as a HDC and a CH st.
- A CH1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a st.
- All CH1SP counts as one st.
To create your Stitched Up Heart Coaster:
To start create a MR, working into the ring
Rnd 1: CH4, working into the ring, [3 DC, CH1] rep 3 times, 2 DC, SLST into the 3rd CH from beginning of the rnd.
Rnd 2: SLST into the corner CHSP, CH5, DC into same CHSP, [CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, (DC, CH2, DC) in CHSP] rep 3 times, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, SLST to the 3rd CH from the beginning of the rnd.
Rnd 3: SLST into the corner CHSP, CH3, 2 HDC into the same CHSP, [HDC into each st and CH1SP until the next corner CHSP, (2 HDC, CH1, 2 HDC) ] rep 3 times, HDC into each st and CH1SP, HDC in the corner CHSP and SLST into the 2nd CH from the beginning of the rnd.
Rnd 4: SLST into the corner CHSP, CH1, SC into the same CHSP, 3 SC, SK1, (6 DC), SK1, 3 SC, SLST to the CHSP, 3 SC, SK1, (6 DC), SK1, 13 SC, (SC, CH2, SC) in bottom CHSP, 9 SC, SLST to the 1st st of the rnd.
Rnd 5: CH1, 3 SC, [DC, CH1] rep 7 times, DC, SK 2, SLST, SK2, [DC, CH1] rep 7 times, DC, 13 SC, (SC, CH2, SC) in CHSP, 10 SC, SLST to the 1st st of the rnd.
Rnd 6: CH1, HDC, 16 DC, SK1, SLST, SK1, 16 DC, 12 HDC, (HDC, CH2, HDC) in bottom CHSP, 11 HDC, SLST to the 1st st of the rnd and fasten off.
Weave in the ends.
You may wish to block your coasters or you can stiffen with starch spray.
Stitched Up Heart Coaster Crochet Chart 
Key for the types of stitches used in this chart Finally…
There is the option to purchase this pattern for a small fee to print the pattern ad-free. It is available in Etsy, Ravelry, Lovecrafts, and here in my shop too.
This pattern has been tested and should not contain any mistakes. I am more than happy to help if you find any problems.
You can contact me by:
Email : stitchedupbyemma@hotmail.com
Instagram: Www.instagram.com/stitchedupbyemma
Facebook: Www.facebook.com/stitchedupbyemma
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern and I cant wait to see your makes.
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Even Moss Stitch Pattern Tutorial
The even moss stitch pattern tutorial. I have never tried this stitch until recently, but I have fallen in love with it. It has such a gorgeous texture and would lend itself well to a variety of different projects. Blankets would be lovely as the texture is dense so would be nice and warm and cosy.
Within these stitch pattern tutorials, I wanted to do something a little different. I will be providing written instructions and chart for each swatch. I will also be accompanying it with a video tutorial and a pattern to use the stitch in, some will be free patterns and some will be paid.
Let us begin.
For this tutorial I have used Stylecraft Special DK in Turquoise and a 4mm hook. It will work in any yarn weight and appropriate hook size.
This stitch patterns uses half double crochet (HDC) and slip stitches (SLST). I work in US terms. UK terms this would be half treble crochet and slip stitches.
To start Chain any number with a multiple of 2
In this example I chained 20.
Row 1: In the 2nd chain from the hook, HDC, [SLST, HDC] repeat until the end and turn. Your last st will be a HDC.
Row 2: CH1 (this does not count as a stitch) HDC in the 1st st, [SLST, HDC] repeat to the end and turn.
Continue repeating row 2 until you have your desired length.
It is such a simple and relaxing stitch repeat and easy to remember. Always half double crochet in a half double crochet from previous row and slip stich into a slip stitch from the previous row.
Even Moss Stitch Crochet Chart.
Below is the chart to work the pattern from.
The symbols represent a specific stitch. There is a table of the basic stitches and abbreviations HERE.
Even Moss Stitch Pattern Chart - Charts can be written either in the round or row by row, like this one.
- Each row is numbered
In this example the squashed oval shape is a chain stitch. So, we need to chain 10, reading that very first row from left to right.
We will then be working our first half double crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook. Then slip stitch into the next and work along row 1 following the symbols.
Row 2 starts with a chain, then half double crochet into the 1st st and then slip stitch into the next and then work along row 2 following the symbols.
If you can imagine that the chart is your work, you can see that the symbols are placed where the stitches are placed. With charts they do not always line up directly over a previous stitch. It could be that there are 3 half double crochets coming from one stitch. They are arranged in the angles they are worked up in. We will talk more about this when you can see it in a chart.
For an example of a pattern to use the even moss stitch pattern in why not take a look at my free Face Cloth. It is part of the Stitched Up Spa Set.
You can also find the Stitched Up Spa Set on my YouTube Channel.
I hope you have found this helpful. I hope it has given you some inspiration into using this stitch.
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Learn the Crochet Basics
I am really excited to tell you all about a new section on the website. Learn the Crochet Basics.
Throughout the last year with COVID around and isolations, restrictions and lockdowns many people have started looking for new hobbies. With this in mind I wanted a way to share my love of crochet with those that can crochet and those that can not just yet.
I have put together a page which contains the basics to help learn how to crochet. Starting right from the beginning with examples of how to hold your hook and yarn. Creating a slip knot and a foundation chain, while covering the basic stitches. You can find it on the menu bar at the top of the page or click HERE.
For each section it contains written step by step instructions, step by step phots and a short video tutorial so that no matter which way you learn I hope I have you covered.
This leads me on to the news that I have started a YouTube Channel!! I am very nervous about this step as it is a massive leap out of my comfort zone. You can find it HERE. Its one of those things I’ve wanted to do for a while but kept putting it off. I am finally really pushing myself so that I can make this my job.
I will be adding stitch tutorials here too for those that can crochet, I have not forgot you.
All this techy stuff is so new and I am really enjoying the challenge.
Is there any stitch tutorials you would like to see? Just let me know in the comments below or send me and email Stitchedupbyemma@hotmail.com
I hope you like this new section and I can not wait to add to it.
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Ho Ho Ho Wall hanging Crochet Pattern
This post may contain affiliate links. This means that I may make a small commission on any purchases made through the link at no extra cost to yourself. You can read more here.
Ho Ho Ho Wall Hanging. I am really excited to share with you my new pattern. This pattern is a FREE filet crochet wall hanging and is perfect for decorating your home at Christmas. You can make it in any colour so it matches your home décor. It also has two different finishes to choose from, pompoms and tassels or a candy cane border.
Ho Ho Ho Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern Materials:
These materials will give you enough to make both versions.
100g Stylecraft Special DK in White ( Available at LoveCrafts)
100g Stylecraft Special DK in Matador ( Available at LoveCrafts)
Small amounts of Stylecraft Special DK in Green ( Available at LoveCrafts)
4mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
30cm x 6mm wooden dowel rod (2 if making both versions)
Small pompom maker
Stitch Markers (optional)
Abbreviations: Written in US terms.
(UK terms in brackets)
CH – Chain
CHSP – Chain Space
DC – Double Crochet (TR – Treble Crochet)
Rep – Repeat
Rnd – Round
SC – Single Crochet (DC – Double crochet)
SK – Skip
SLST – Slip Stitch
st(s) – Stitch(es)
[…] – repeat pattern stated number of times
*…* repeat pattern stated number of times.
Notes:
Finished White wall hanging is approximately 9.5 inches x 15 inches
Finished Red wall hanging is approximately 9 inches x 15 inches – not including tassels
Gauge – 15 double crochet stitches x 9 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches.
· This pattern uses filet crochet. With this technique you can either follow the written pattern or the chart provided.
· If you follow the chart please be aware that each block of the chart represents one stitch. Each white block is one double crochet. Each black block is a chain.
· The CH2 at the beginning of each row counts as a stitch throughout this pattern. I feel like the CH2 gives a nicer finish at the edge. If you prefer you can substitute this for a CH3 instead.
· Your last stitch is worked into the top of the CH2 from the previous row. It can help to mark this stitch with stitch markers to help locate it.
· If working from the chart all odd numbers are read right to left and even rows are read left to right.
· When working the border, you may want to mark your corner stitches with a stitch marker.
· This wall hanging can be worked in any yarn weight using the appropriate or preferred hook size for that weight but amounts of yarn will vary from what is stated in the pattern and you may need to change the size of the wooden dowel rod used.
· There is also a shorthand version of the written pattern if you prefer this. The pattern is written in a series of numbers and commas. The number represents how many stitches to work and each comma is the CH1, SK1. For example, 2 , 3 , 2 is DC2, CH1, SK1, DC3, CH1, SK1, DC2.
Main Section:
Both versions are made using this main section.
Using chosen colour CH 40, DC in 3rd st from the hook.
Row 1: DC in every st and turn. (39)
Row 2: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC3, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC8 and turn.
Row 3: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 4: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 5: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 6: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 7: CH2, DC7, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC4, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 8: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC23 and turn.
Row 9: CH2, DC22, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 10: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC23 and turn.
Row 11: CH2, DC in every st and turn.
Row 12: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC3, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC12 and turn.
Row 13: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 14: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 15: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 16: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 17: CH2, DC11, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC4, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 18: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC27 and turn.
Row 19: CH2, DC26, CH1, SK1, DC11 and turn.
Row 20: CH2, DC10, CH1, SK1, DC27 and turn.
Row 21: CH2, DC in every st and turn.
Row 22: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC3, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC16 and turn.
Row 23: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 24: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 25: CH2, DC14, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 26: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC2, CH1, SK1, DC5, CH1, SK1, DC15 and turn.
Row 27: CH2, DC15, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC4, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 28: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC31 and turn.
Row 29: CH2, DC30, CH1, SK1, DC7 and turn.
Row 30: CH2, DC6, CH1, SK1, DC31 and turn.
Row 31: CH2, DC in every st.
Chart for working the Ho Ho Ho wall hanging crochet pattern For the White wall hanging continue as follows.
Do not fasten off.
Candy Cane Border on the Ho Ho Ho Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern Border:
Rnd 1: CH1 (does not count as a st), turn work 90 degrees, (work 2 SC around each st along the side. Along to bottom, work 2 SC in the first st marking the first SC made with a stitch marker. SC in every st across, working 2 SC in the last st. Mark your second SC made with stitch marker) twice. Slst to the first st.
Rnd 2: CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove your hook, Attach the green yarn with a slst in the next st. CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove your hook, Attach the red yarn with a slst in the next st. CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove your hook.
Insert your hook back into the white loop. SC in the st after the red CH. CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove the hook.
Insert your hook back into the green loop. SC in the st after the white CH. CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove your hook.
Insert your hook into the red loop. SC in the st after the green CH. CH5, on your 5th CH pull the loop up and remove your hook.
This forms the repeat pattern for your border.
When you get to the first corner (marked by a stitch marker) work the SC for all 3 colours in the same st. This will allow your border to turn the corner with out curling your work.
Continue along the bottom of the wall hanging working through the pattern repeats until the next corner. Work in the same way as the first corner, working the SC for all 3 colour in the same st.
Work the repeating pattern up the last side. When you reach the top right hand corner. Fasten off the red and green.
Continue with the white to attach the wall hanging to the wooden dowel rod.
CH1, (does not count as a st) SC into every st working the st around the rod. At the end of the row CH50 and slst to the first st of the row to create the hanger.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
If you find the border has made your wall hanging a little wavy blocking it will help.
For the Red wall hanging continue as follows.
Tassels and [pompoms on the Ho Ho Ho Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern. Do not fasten off.
CH1, (does not count as a st) SC in every st working the st around the rod. At the end of the row CH50 and slst to the first st of the row to create the hanger.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Tassels:
Cut 39 lengths of yarn approximately 40cm. This will create a tassel length of 20cm. If you prefer a longer tassel cut 50 or 60cm lengths instead. You can then trim your tassels to the desired length.
To attach a tassel, with right side of your work facing up, insert your crochet hook into the first st along the bottom of your wall hanging. Fold a length of yarn around the hook and pull the loop through. Insert your thumb and finger into the loop, ensuring the two ends are equal in length, pull through the loop. Pull tight and your tassel is attached.
Repeat this for every st along the bottom. You may wish to steam your tassels, so they are straight before you trim them. I used a steamer to straighten mine and trimmed into a point.
Pompoms: Using your pompom maker make 3 pompoms. Trim and attach to the bottom left corner and weave in the ends.
Shorthand Instructions:
Set up foundation Chain and work row 1 as per written instructions.
Row 2: 15 , 6 , 3 , 1 , 1 , 8
Row 3: 7 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 15
Row 4: 15 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 7
Row 5: 7 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 15
Row 6: 15 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 7
Row 7: 8 , 1 , 1 , 4 , 1 , 1 , 1 , 15
Row 8: 15 , 23
Row 9: 23 , 15
Row 10: 15 , 23
Row 11: 39
Row 12: 11 , 6 , 3 , 1 , 1 , 12
Row 13: 11 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 11
Row 14: 11 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 11
Row 15: 11 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 11
Row 16: 11 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 11
Row 17: 12 , 1 , 1 , 4 , 1 , 1 , 1 , 11
Row 18: 11 , 27
Row 19: 27 , 11
Row 20: 11 , 27
Row 21: 39
Row 22: 7 , 6 , 3 , 1 , 1 , 16
Row 23: 15 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 7
Row 24: 7 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 15
Row 25: 15 , 5 , 2 , 6 , 7
Row 26: 7 , 6 , 2 , 5 , 15
Row 27: 16 , 1 , 1 , 4 , 1 , 1 , 1 , 7
Row 28: 7 , 31
Row 29: 31 , 7
Row 30: 7 , 31
Row 31: 39 Do not fasten off, Continue with the instructions on page 3 and or 4
Do not fasten off.
Continue to border instructions on page 4.
This pattern has been tested and should not contain any mistakes. I am more than happy to help should you find any problems.
You can contact me by:
Email : sticthedupbyemma@hotmail.com
Instagram: Www.instagram.com/stitchedupbyemma
Facebook: Www.facebook.com/stitchedupbyemma
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern and I cant wait to see your makes.